Glenn Martens Takes the Helm at Maison Margiela, Ushering in a New Era

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Glenn Martens
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 21: Fashion designer Glenn Martens acknowledges the applause of the audience at the Diesel fashion show during the Milan Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 on September 21, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images)

Maison Margiela has found its new creative director in a familiar face. On Wednesday morning, just hours after the men’s fall fashion shows concluded in Paris, Belgian designer Glenn Martens stepped into the role, replacing the legendary John Galliano. With this announcement, one of the fashion industry’s most speculated questions finally received an answer.

Martens is no stranger to the world of Maison Margiela or its parent company, Only the Brave Group. Since 2020, he has led Diesel, the specialty denim brand founded by OTB chairman Renzo Rosso. Now, Martens will balance his responsibilities between the two labels, taking on the rare challenge of overseeing creative direction at both houses simultaneously.

The appointment of Martens signals a decision that values continuity over disruption. His connection to OTB runs deep, and his past work at Diesel has demonstrated his ability to reinvigorate brands while staying true to their core identity. Under his leadership, Diesel reclaimed relevance with bold, avant-garde denim creations that blurred the line between luxury and streetwear. His approach to design aligns closely with Maison Margiela’s philosophy, where deconstruction, reinvention, and a defiance of convention serve as defining principles.

Galliano’s departure left a void that many believed would be difficult to fill. His theatrical vision transformed Maison Margiela, injecting a couture-like artistry into a brand built on anonymity and radical minimalism. However, Martens’ appointment suggests that the company prefers evolution over revolution. His experience with conceptual tailoring, subversive silhouettes, and technical mastery positions him as a natural successor to continue Margiela’s legacy.

The parallels between Martens and Margiela himself are hard to ignore. Both hail from Belgium and share a fascination with unconventional garment construction. Martens, like Margiela, embraces an aesthetic that challenges traditional beauty norms. His work often distorts proportions, reimagines fabrics, and questions the very nature of what clothing should be. This ideology, deeply rooted in Margiela’s DNA, makes Martens an inspired yet safe choice.

His previous tenure at Y/Project, the Paris-based label he has directed since 2013, further highlights his ability to push creative boundaries. Under his leadership, Y/Project earned a reputation for experimental designs that merged historical references with modern irreverence. His knack for manipulating structure and draping aligns seamlessly with Margiela’s past collections, suggesting that his transition into this new role will be both natural and exciting.

Industry insiders had speculated for months about who would step into Galliano’s shoes. Names ranging from avant-garde visionaries to established luxury designers circulated in conversations, but Martens always remained a strong contender. His understanding of OTB’s corporate culture, combined with his respect for Margiela’s heritage, gave him a distinct advantage. His appointment also underscores a broader industry trend, where fashion houses increasingly favor internal talent or designers with close ties to the company over hiring outsiders with drastically different perspectives.

Now, as Martens takes the reins, the question shifts from who will lead Maison Margiela to how he will shape its future. His tenure will inevitably bring change, but the extent of his influence remains to be seen. Will he lean further into the theatrical flourishes Galliano introduced, or will he strip the brand back to its original raw and deconstructed ethos? His past collections suggest a balance between the two, where technical mastery meets conceptual innovation.

Balancing creative leadership at two brands presents a formidable challenge. The demands of overseeing both Diesel and Maison Margiela will test Martens’ ability to maintain distinct identities for each. Diesel thrives on a rebellious, denim-centric aesthetic, while Margiela demands intellectual subversion and conceptual craftsmanship. Yet, if his track record at Y/Project is any indication, Martens possesses the skill to juggle multiple creative identities without compromising artistic integrity.

With his first collection for Margiela yet to be unveiled, the fashion world waits in anticipation. His arrival marks the beginning of a new chapter, one that builds on the foundation laid by Galliano while embracing fresh perspectives. Whether his vision will redefine Margiela or subtly refine it, one thing is clear: the house has entrusted its legacy to a designer who understands both its past and its potential.

Martens’ appointment also reflects a growing industry shift where luxury brands prioritize designers who understand their internal workings. Rather than bringing in a radical outsider, Maison Margiela has opted for someone who has already proven his ability to navigate the complexities of OTB’s ecosystem. This move suggests that the brand seeks stability and continuity rather than a dramatic overhaul. Fashion, while driven by innovation, often finds itself returning to those who have already demonstrated their ability to work within established frameworks while still pushing creative boundaries.

Another aspect that makes Martens’ selection particularly intriguing is his deep appreciation for architectural fashion. His work often explores structure in unconventional ways, creating garments that almost defy traditional tailoring rules. Maison Margiela has long been a brand that thrives on such experimental techniques, whether through exaggerated silhouettes, unexpected fabric pairings, or garments that deliberately expose their inner workings. His background suggests that these elements will continue to evolve under his leadership, likely blending Galliano’s theatricality with his own conceptual rigour.

The timing of this announcement also speaks to a broader moment in fashion, where brands are reevaluating their creative strategies post-pandemic. With consumers seeking deeper meaning in fashion and designers being pushed to rethink traditional luxury, Martens steps in at a critical juncture. His dual role at Diesel and Margiela highlights the increasing overlap between high fashion and everyday wear, a dynamic that many labels are now exploring. Whether this will result in a more accessible take on Margiela or an even more avant-garde approach remains to be seen.

Despite the challenges ahead, Martens brings an undeniable energy to the role. His career trajectory showcases a designer who is unafraid to experiment but also deeply respects a brand’s legacy. Maison Margiela’s future under his leadership promises to be one of thoughtful evolution, where innovation and heritage coexist in compelling new ways. Fashion audiences will be watching closely, eager to see how he shapes the next era of this iconic house.

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