Fashion’s obsession with thinness has made an aggressive comeback. The fall runway shows displayed fur, power curves, and black leather, but the most concerning trend was the near disappearance of size inclusivity. The industry, which once celebrated body diversity, is shrinking its models to a worrying extreme.
Backstage at Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry used trompe l’oeil techniques to enhance silhouettes with structured shoulders and padded hips. When asked about a model whose hip bones protruded like accessories, he admitted that was her natural frame. The reality of increasingly thinner models stood in stark contrast to fashion’s artificial attempts at curvier designs.
In 2021, Paloma Elsesser became the first plus-size model to grace American Vogue, marking a peak in body diversity. Since then, inclusivity has faded. Runways are dominated by ultrathin figures, reversing progress. David Bonnouvrier of DNA Model Management acknowledged the industry’s pendulum swing, moving from embracing diversity to rejecting it again.
Vogue Business’ fall 2025 size inclusivity report showed a drastic drop in midsize and plus-size representation. Out of 8,703 runway looks across 198 shows, only 2% featured midsize models, while a mere 0.3% included plus-size models. This decline was even sharper than the previous season, which had slightly higher percentages. Data from Tagwalk indicated that 16% fewer collections featured even a single curve model compared to the prior season. Of the 20 most-viewed shows, only four—Hermès, Givenchy, Coach, and Marni—included three curve models in total.
Fashion’s top brands dictate trends, and this time, they are leading the industry backward. Nina Ricci, once a leader in size inclusivity under Harris Reed, showcased just one midsize model in its latest collection. Reed’s debut show in 2023 had opened with Precious Lee, a well-known plus-size model, and included several others. When questioned about this shift, a Nina Ricci spokesperson cited a lack of available curve models, suggesting that late casting decisions prevented the brand from altering sample sizes.
The issue extends beyond fewer curve models; ultrathinness is dominating the industry again. More visible ribs, protruding collarbones, and sharp vertebrae recalled the early 2000s era of extreme thinness. This resurgence is alarming, given the proven link between unrealistic body standards and eating disorders. Social media amplifies these runway images, exposing a wider audience—especially impressionable young people—to dangerous beauty ideals.
Runway shows have evolved into global entertainment events, shaping perceptions of beauty far beyond the fashion elite. The Council of Fashion Designers of America introduced health guidelines in 2012 to combat unhealthy body standards, but those efforts appear to be unraveling. When models grow thinner with each season, the message becomes clear: thin is in, and anything outside that standard is fading from the industry’s vision.
The return of ultrathin models highlights fashion’s fickle relationship with inclusivity. The industry briefly celebrated diversity, but its commitment was superficial. Now, the pendulum swings back, reinforcing old beauty ideals. While brands insist they care about representation, their runways tell a different story. If fashion continues to erase diverse body types, it risks alienating the very audience it seeks to inspire.
The glorification of extreme thinness sends a dangerous message to aspiring models and young fashion enthusiasts. Agencies often push new talent to conform to the industry’s evolving standards, and when those standards demand visible bone structure and increasingly smaller sizes, many feel pressured to comply. This not only affects those within the modeling world but also influences broader society, where fashion trends quickly translate into real-world beauty expectations.
Social media amplifies these issues further. Platforms like Instagram and TikTok showcase runway highlights to millions, shaping perceptions of what is desirable. Young audiences, already vulnerable to body image struggles, internalize these unrealistic beauty ideals. Studies have repeatedly shown that exposure to such imagery correlates with an increase in disordered eating behaviors, anxiety, and depression. Fashion has always been aspirational, but when aspiration turns into unattainable thinness, it becomes harmful.
The industry’s rejection of body diversity is particularly striking given the commercial success of brands that embraced inclusivity. Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty revolutionized lingerie by featuring models of all shapes and sizes, and its widespread appeal forced other brands to follow suit. Even luxury houses that once resisted inclusivity began casting plus-size and midsize models, recognizing the demand for representation. The sudden reversal now suggests that diversity was merely a passing trend, rather than a true shift in values.
As fashion moves backward, the conversation around health and inclusivity must move forward. Designers, casting directors, and brands wield enormous influence, and with that influence comes responsibility. Fashion should inspire confidence, not insecurity. If the industry truly values innovation, it must reconsider whether excluding diverse bodies is a step toward progress or a return to outdated, harmful ideals.